Molting or Pecking Problems?

The midwinter doldrums have hit, and my clients and discussion group colleagues are reporting that their hens have feather loss in large patches on their heads, necks, and backs. Many think this could be molting; however, feather pecking/cannibalism is also a possibility. I recently visited a coop in Winfield and determined that cage agression, rather than molting, was the cause of feather loss. I also surveyed the coop and gave the owner some suggestions for improving conditions.


Molting Patterns  A molting bird will lose feathers in cycles, and not all at once in one area. You can see this especially in a wing molt: First one feather will be lost, then the one next to it, successively down the wing. Chickens will lose their feathers in order: head, neck, breast, body, wings, and tail. You will notice large amounts of feathers in the coop and run, and new feathers will appear (covered by the old, as-yet-unshed feathers).

Bloodfeathers  Each new feather will have blood supply, covered by a shiny casing. As the feather grows, the bird will strip off this casing. If is very important not to break these new bloodfeathers; if one does break. pull the feather completely out and stanch the bleeding with cornstarch until coagulation occurs. Make sure the bleeding stops completely. You can read more about molting here.

Pecking Problems

There are two kinds of pecking problems: self-mutilation and cannibalism.

The first, self-mutilation, is seldom an issue in flocks of backyard hens. This occurs when a bird overpicks or overpreens its feathers out of boredom, anxiety, fear, or loneliness. This is often seen in lone birds, such as caged parrots. A bird who self-mutilates its feathers may also mutilate its own flesh for the same reason. Parrots are flock animals and need attention from others. Self-mutilation is often a problem with these highly intelligent creatures.

The second kind of pecking problem, cannibalism, occurs when one bird pecks another, damaging feathers or skin, and possibly killing the other bird. Cannibalism can be triggered by a number of things. (Note: Baldness on the neck, head, and back can be due to overmating, as these are the places a cock will contact when mounting a hen. Also check nest boxes and coops for low-hanging splintery surfaces, wire, or nails that may cause feather damage.)

  • Coop size: Too many birds in a small coop can lead to cage aggression/cannibalism – hens pecking one another to death. Provide 4 square feet per bird in a coop with a run and 10 square feet per bird in an enclosed coop.
  • Breed of bird: Large breeds may bully smaller breeds, and chickens with odd features (e.g., peacomb, crest on head, or feather on feet) may be singled out.
  • Fear: Threat of predators can trigger picking. The flock will sacrifice weak members for its own safety.
  • Boredom: Birds need constant activity. Wild junglefowl, the ancestors of the modern chicken, continually search for food and try to remain safe from predators. If they don’t have something interesting to do, pecking can result.
  • Newness of bird: A flock will often attack and kill new arrivals. Introductions can be tricky (or seamless!). Read more on my post Avian Introductions.
  • Previous injury:  A bird with a scabbed over area, a missing toe, or an odd wing feather may be targeted in that area. Birds are naturally curious and will pick at things that look different.
  • Change in environment: Birds are creatures of habit. They like routine and prefer an environment that is not always changing. Sometimes addition of something new can trigger picking.
  • Dietary deficiencies: Lack of salt, protein, methionine, and manganese can cause picking. The birds will eat one another’s feathers to supplement their nutrient intake. Always feed a balanced commercial layer ration purchased from a reputable organization. I do not recommend mixing your own feed or providing supplemental salt, methionine, or manganese unless you are certain the issue is dietary AND you have the advice of an avian certified vet.
  • General meanness/pecking order nonsense: If the alpha bird is particularly dominant, it can lead to a deadly pecking war. As a last resort, debeaking, separation of the flock, or removal of the aggressive bird may resolve the problem; however, sometimes the other birds have picked up the habit and will continue to harass their flockmates.  Sometimes flock composition simply does not work out.

 Signs of Cannibalism

If you think you might have a case of cannibalism, you can examine feathers for signs of pecking (rather than molting). A normal feather (left) will look like the one below, smooth edges, nice contour, a bit of a sheen. A picked feather may have a V-shaped divet (middle) , indicating that the end of the feather was torn off. It may also have ragged edges (right) with bits missing on the part furthest from the body (the rounded contour), and a dull luster. A pecked bird will have multiple feathers with these problems.

Solutions for Pecking Problems

If you have a pecking problem in your flock, consider the following

  • Get a larger coop or add a run.
  • Remove problem birds.
  • Remove stressors or potential threats.
  • Allow birds out to forage.
  • Provide places for birds to hide, such as pieces of plywood, crates, etc.
  • Put out several feed/water stations.
  • Provide fun, healthy foods in creative ways that encourage foraging behaviors (whole apples, baked squash partially opened, celery suspended from ceiling, live crickets).
  • Introduce new birds carefully, and watch them for aggression (see my post Avian Introductions – this may help but is not fool proof.)
  • Remove bleeding birds immediately.
  • Feed a balanced commercial layer ration purchased from a reputable organization. Nutrition can be lost with pellets, so try switching to a mash/crumble.
  • Provide a handful of dry cat chow once a day for extra methionine, a essential amino acid.
  • Apply an antipick spray or powder. Rooster Booster Pick No More is available on line.

Good luck!


4 responses to this post.

  1. Posted by Lisa on February 22, 2012 at 12:38 pm

    Jen, thanks for coming all the way out to give me a hand at some suggestions this weekend. First and foremost it was good to know exactly what my problem in the coop was and that was aggression – not a molt as I had suspected.

    You pointed out that with nine chickens there are a lot of group dynamics to consider and although there have been no big changes in the coop’s social structure it seems as though there is a lot going on. First of all – daylight is coming considerably earlier. We talked about the fact that I had not changed the timer on my coop door since Dec so the birds were up and awake in a small space for a least an hour before the timer opened the door into the run. While my coop is plenty big enough for nighttime (we made it to accommodate 15 heavyweight birds) 9 birds that are waiting to go and scavenge the run get a little antsy and start pecking each other while waiting – it is spilling over into pecking all day long now. In addition, their free ranging time in the yard has been cut down. We are having an issue with coyotes in our area and we have had several in the yard during the day even while we are out and making noise. Predators are out in full force with spring and mating season so the birds are under close wraps and can not be out in the yard without a few of us out there to keep an eye on things. (We have a very large yard that is home to racoons, skunks, owls, hawks, and as I mentioned a coyote or two passing through.

    I had one bird that lost most of the feathers on her back. The entire group was pecking at the bald spot so it has continued to grow. It was to the point that it was attracting the others and they were drawing blood with the pecking. She has spent a week away healing and joins the group during free ranging time only. Once her back is healed and the spot is concealed completely (another day or two) we will add her back to the flock. In the meantime the bird that I thought was the aggressor appears to be just another flock mate being pecked. Jen noticed several times that one of our bigger birds was pecking everyone and seemed to be gunning for a few in particular. When the injured bird returns to the group we will the aggressor for a few days to see if order can be somewhat restored. If not, well then, we’ll deal with that then.

    In addition to manipulating group dynamics as we discussed, I am trying several suggestions to keep the hens from being bored inside the run. I have added some hanging items for them to peck at and I am scattering food instead of leaving it in a feeder. I have added several logs for the hens to perch on and I dump treats all over them so they are caught in the nooks and crannies and the birds need to “work”

    All in all there seems to be a lot I can do to help change where my flock was going by being proactive and trying to mimic a more natural environment instead of keeping a neat and tidy run.

    Thanks Jen!



  2. Posted by sandyhook2707398 on October 5, 2016 at 6:42 am

    One of my hen is molting and has been pecked by others. On one morning I noticed she was bleeding from the pecking. I removed her and since then (one week) she has been in an other area away from the rest of the hens. Her feathers are just starting to grow back. She has lost quite a few, neck, back, wings and tail. At the end of the day, when it starts to get dark, I put her back in the coop with the others for the night. During the day, when I let them out, I noticed that the others are still trying to peck at her bare skin where the feathers are growing back. When should I take her back completely in the coop/run with the others? Should I wait until the molting has stopped and all feathers are grown back?

    Thank you,



    • Hi, B,
      Sorry to hear you are dealing with this.
      I’d separate her until new feathers have covered the bare skin. To prevent the flock from completely ostracizing her on re-entry, you may want to put her and a hen who does not pick her in the same cage, so she has a buddy. This will keep her company and ease re-entry.
      Sometimes hens will start pecking blood feathers (feathers that are growing in, with a blood supply in the shaft) because they look odd. If the feathers start bleeding, that can lead to more pecking because hens seem to love picked at red things, blood included. If she is bleeding, you stop the bleeding by using compression and/or stypic powder. Separate her. Apply a product like Rooster Booster Pick-no-More on the areas that were being picked to prevent her flockmates from picking her when you put her back in. This product tastes bad to chickens and is purple.
      Make sure you have enough space in your coop (4 sq ft/bird in coop, 6-8 sq ft/bird in run).
      Hope this helps!


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