Archive for the ‘Chicken care’ Category
14 Apr
FREE Basic Chicken Q&A Zoom meeting with Home to Roost!
25 May
Coop Camp is right around the corner! Memorial Day special price!
Have you signed up for Coop Camp yet? Speakers include author Patricia Foreman (City Chicks) and Perdue’s Darrin Karcher and Patricia Wakenell! Check out the rest of the speakers and presentations!
Home to Roost will be speaking on chicken first aid and flock psychology.
Coop Camp is in Danville, IN ( just west of Indianapolis), June 7 to 9. Sign up for this weekend filled with chicken-y fun and great informational sessions on how to help your birds live healthier, happier lives! The cost has been cut to ONLY $99 (regular price $125)!
**Home to Roost’s promo code is HTR!**
Looking forward to seeing you there!
21 Apr
Virulent Newcastle Disease Found in Chickens in California
Cases of Virulent Newcastle disease (vND) in chickens have been reported in the Western US. This highly contagious virus can cause disease and death in various kinds of poultry, as well as in parrots. Nearly 100 percent of unvaccinated birds may die. Even flocks vaccinated for vND are not completely safe.
There have been 422 cases of vND in California, including 132 in San Bernardino County, 246 in Riverside County, 42 in Los Angeles County, 1 in Ventura County, and 1 in Alameda County; 1 case in Utah County, Utah; 1 case in Coconino County, Arizona.
Symptoms are varied but may include lethargy; lack of appetite; respiratory issues (sneezing, gasping, coughing); fluids coming from nose and mouth; greenish, watery diarrhea; swelling of eyes and neck; and sudden death. It may also cause paralysis. Note that
The virus often originates in illegally imported exotics that have not undergone USDA quarantine. It can be transmitted by contact with infected birds; by feed, water, air, manure; on hands, clothes, shoes, and equipment; by animal feet; and in incubators contaminated by eggs from infected hens.
FAQs for Chicago Chicken Owners
Do I need to be worried? Probably not, unless you’ve traveled to the areas affected and interacted with poultry or poultry owners.
What is the risk to humans? There are no reported cases of people getting sick from eating infected poultry that is properly cooked. In humans, the virus that causes vND can cause conjunctivitis (pink eye).
How can I keep my chickens safe? Practice good biosecurity, using the following tips:
- Quarantine any new birds for 30 days.
- Know your flock’s history. Do not take in birds whose origins and bill of health are not known.
- Wash hands and clean shoes thoroughly when entering or leaving a place with poultry.
- Disinfect equipment (e.g., such as coops, incubators, feeders) before it comes on to or leaves your property.
- For more info on biosecurity, see the USDA’s tips at the Defend the Flock website.
What do I do if I think my bird has vND? Ask an avian vet to run a pathology report. This disease should be reported to state and federal officials. Call the USDA at 1-866-536-7593 and the Illinois Bureau of Animal Health and Welfare at 217-782-4944.
Where do I find more information on vND?
USDA Animal and Plant Health and Inspection Service’s vND page
Photos of poultry infected with vND
Illinois Department of Agriculture’s Animals pages
10 Aug
Rodent issues?
Do you have mice in your coop? Those pesky little visitors stop by looking for spilled feed, a dry place to hang out (or even worse, to make a nest – and produce more pesky little visitors).
Many rat and mouse baits are toxic to cats, dogs, and chickens – and all of these animals will happily make a quick snack of a rodent who’s had a bit too much toxin. So what to do?
A few ideas:
- Put your feeder at the height of the chickens’ backs. This will prevent them from swishing food onto the ground.
- Switch to a pelleted feed to minimize spillage.
- Purchase a weight-activated feeder. These feeders will open for chickens — but not for mice, rats, or sparrows!
- Try keeping your feeder in the coop all the time – and make sure to close the birds – and their feeder — in at night. Rats and mice are nocturnal (out most often at night), and this will limit their access to prime-time feeding.
- Mix hot pepper into your feed. Birds cannot taste capsaicin, the compound that makes peppers “hot,” but mammals sure can! Just be sure you don’t breathe in the pepper dust or touch your eyes while handling the feed.
- Build a better (nontoxic) mousetrap. Check out this idea from Backyard Chickens: Drill a hole in the bottom of a soda can. Place can on a dowel rod so that it spins. Drill holes in the top of a 5-gal. bucket so that the dowel rod (with the soda can on it) fits in the holes and spans the diameter of the bucket. Smear peanut butter on the soda can. Place a ramp up to the bucket. The mice will smell the peanut butter, run up the ramp, try to get the peanut butter on the spinning soda can, and fall into the bucket. Dispose of rodents as you see fit!
25 Jul
Helping Your Chickens Survive the Dog Days of Summer
Help your chickens beat this crazy hot and humid weather!
As the temperatures and humidity soar, you’ll want to help your hens keep cool. A few tips for helping your hens beat the heat. When temperatures reach the mid-80s, your birds will probably start panting. In temperatures above 100, your birds may suffer heatstroke. Here are some tips, excerpted from my class on chickens and heat, to prevent that.
1) Provide fresh, clean water – and lots of it.
2) Freeze 2-liter bottles and put them in the coop to cool it down.
3) Remove excess bedding, which traps heat.
4) Feed a crumble feed, rather than a whole-grain food. Grains generate heat as they are metabolized.
5) Provide shade.
If you notice that the birds are listless and lethargic (signs of heat stress), consider bringing them into a cool basement or to an air-conditioned mudroom (in a dog crate or portable cage).
As always, keep an eye on your birds and know what’s normal for them. This will help you catch problems before they become life threatening.
26 May
Chicken-keeping classes at the Chicago Botanic Garden
Sign up for a series of three classes (or pick and choose) at the Botanic Garden. I’m offering the following:
Raising Backyard Chickens Saturday, 6/4, 11am – 1pm
This class is designed for curious folks who are considering getting chickens, as well as for those who already have their own birds. Learn how to raise chicks, care for adult birds, and keep your neighbors happy!
Chicken Coop Basics Saturday, 6/4, 2 – 4pm
This class addresses what you need to know about building a safe and comfortable home for your hens. You’ll learn the basic needs of backyard birds. Find out the essential components of a coop, things to avoid when choosing construction materials, important construction tips, and see different coop styles. (Chicken-keeping class is a prerequisite.)
Summer Chicken Care Saturday, 6/11, 1 – 3pm
Many people worry about their birds getting through the winter. However, heat and humidity can also be rough for a chicken. How do chickens cool themselves naturally? Do you know the signs of heat stroke? What can you do to help an overheated bird? Find out how to care for your hens during the dog days of summer. (Chicken-keeping class is a prerequisite.)
27 Apr
Dog Trainers with Chicken Experience
Wondering how your four-legged friend will handle having two-legged, feather friends? Meet Ian and Kristy Dilworth, owners of Smart Dogs. They recently called me out on a chicken consultation and invited me to see their dog training and lodging facilities. They have worked with clients who have chickens and were interested when I mentioned that many of my clients ask about chickens and dogs. If you’re interested in boarding or training, give them a call!
25 Apr
Ideas for Class Topics
Are there any burning questions about chickens you’d like to have answered? What practical advice would you appreciate? What aspects of chicken keeping are still challenging?
12 Jan
Chickens and Cold Temperatures
We’re due for some VERY cold temps here in Chicago (in the negative degrees F, and windchills even lower), and a number of questions have come up about chickens and cold temps.
Here’s a list of ideas I’ve compiled. If you have suggestions, feel free to post.
Bedding
- Keep bedding loose and dry. Deep bedding helps trap heat.
- Clear snow from bedding.
Coop
- Cover the coop and wire-covered areas (such as the run) on three sides with a plastic tarp, heavy plastic, or plywood.
- Fill in cracks and crevices in the coop with newspaper or cardboard.
- The coop should not be completely airtight; allow some air circulation to prevent frostbite.
Roosts
- Make sure roosts are in the least drafty place in the coop.
- Use wide roosts for toe coverage (2-4 inches in width)
Supplemental heat
- If you have cold-hardy birds, they should be ok if the temperatures drop slowly.
- Any source of heat is a fire hazard.
- If ceiling is higher than 2 feet above the chickens, you may want to install a heat lamp above the roost that will turn on when the temp is in the single digits.
- Be sure that the lamp cannot be damaged by a flying bird.
- If you choose to heat, I’d suggest doing so only if the temperatures are in the single digits or below zero for several days raising the temperature by no more than 10 degrees higher than the outside temperature.
- If you bring the birds indoors, make a gradual transition to warmer temps – e.g., from 0 degrees to 20 degrees to 45 degrees, NOT from 0 degrees directly to 45 degrees.
- Note that providing too much can lead to obese birds. It also can be difficult for them to adjust to drastic changes in temperature.
Frostbite
- Watch toes and combs/wattles for signs of frostbite. A little petroleum jelly on combs and wattles can prevent frostbite *however* be careful not to overapply – petroleum products can coat the feathers, reducing their insulating properties.
- Do not allow them to be out in the snow for extended periods of time to avoid freezing their toes.
- Clear snow out of sections of the run so they don’t have to walk in it.
- If chickens do get frostbite, treat with aloe vera, can use aspirin solution for pain (three 325 mg tabs per 1 gal water), don’t massage, don’t heat up rapidly. Allow tissue to die/fall off naturally.
Food and Water
- Check water several times a day to be sure it’s not frozen.
- Feed mash mixed with warm milk or water.
- Provide a few handfuls of scratch grains in the evening before the hens go to roost. Can also feed a handful or two of scratch in the AM.
Laying
- Extreme temperatures can stress the birds and cause hens to go out of lay.
- Collect eggs so they do not freeze and lead to egg eating.
12 Jan
Winterizing Your Chickens
If you got chicks this spring, you probably asked the question, “How do I take care of the hens over the winter?” Bringing them into the house is not a great idea, and unlike dogs, chickens generally aren’t given to wearing sweaters and booties. Nor are they given to fluid replacement.
Here are some tips for helping your chickens ride out the winter.
Coop Environment
- Move your coop to an area out of the wind.
- Cover the run with tarps or heavy-duty plastic to prevent drafts.
- Ensure that the coop is well ventilated but not drafty. Moisture buildup leads to frostbite.
- Clean poop from the coop often. Chicken feces add to the moisture content of the air in the coop.
- Stack strawbales around the run to hold in the heat and prevent snow from blowing in.
- Minimize moisture in the coop. Moisture leads to frostbite. It’s more important to have a dry coop than a warm coop.
- Provide lots of bedding or straw. Bedding should be dry and fluffy so that it traps the heat.
- A heat lamp is optional. Beware of fire hazards, especially with the dry bedding, and use a red, rather than white, bulb. A reptile heat emitter can also help.
- If you want your hens to continue laying during the winter, supplement white light in the morning (not evening) so that the hens get 14 hours of light. You can also let their bodies rest and give them the winter off from laying.
- Provide wide roosts that allow the down feathers on their bellies to cover their feet.
Food and Water
- Provide fresh, unfrozen water and be sure they have continuous access to food – their bodies need it to stay warm. You can keep two waterers – one in the house and one outside – and swap them out as the outside one freezes.
- Provide extra protein for the birds during the winter months. A handful of dry cat (not dog) food will give an extra protein boost.
- You can provide a handful of scratch grain in the evening, before they head to the roost for the night. This will help keep their metabolism going during the night.
- Provide a head of cabbage, hung from a string or chain to keep them engaged and prevent pecking.
- Use a bird suet basket as a treat box.
Frostbite
- Use Vaseline on combs and wattles to keep them from freezing.
- Watch feet, combs, and wattles signs of frostbite – they will look swollen and puffy at first. They will eventually turn black and fall off. Infection is a possible risk of a bad case of frostbite.
Contact Home to Roost if you’d like an in-home winterizing consultation.